Spa Experience: Sunday in the Springs
    With the convertible top down, two stressed-out ladies in search of tranquility sail along Palm Drive, that farside-of-the-moon thoroughfare linking Desert Hot Springs to the rest of the Coachella Valley. (Living amongst the manicured greenery of Palm Springs, we sometimes forget what the desert really looks like. This place is an inspiring reminder.)
    We're heading for a Sunday Spa Getaway at Miracle Springs Hotel & Spa. The resort sits high up on a hill overlooking the valley — providing some amazing panoramic mountain views. San Jacinto never loomed so large. A little serenity is already starting to seep in. The lovely lobby, decorated in peaceful earth tones, doesn't break the mood. Nor does the friendly and accommodating spa supervisor, Helen Alexander, who greets us and sees that we are properly checked in. We've booked a hotel room for "day use" — a handy option offered by the resort.
    After a quick trip to our room, we make a beeline for the Sunday buffet brunch. One of us opts for the extensive selection of roasted veggies. The other loads up on crisp bacon, delicious sausages, scrambled eggs served in a pastry cup, and assorted Danish. The temptation proves too strong for spa-goer number one, however, and she's soon hitting the sausage chaffing dish and the dessert table. We decide to walk the long way back to the room to aid digestion.
    Supervisor Alexander has suggested a good soak before we begin our spa treatments. This is a must at the appropriately named Miracle Springs. Eight pools are scattered around the property. The largest, good for laps and family play, is kept at about 80 degrees. The smaller pools, however, bubble and percolated at about 104 soothing degrees. All of the pools are fed directly from the mineral waters of Desert Hot Springs (again, no misnomer). Naturally heated by magma deep inside the earth, the water actually comes out at an overly toasty 140 degrees. The resort cools the water before it goes into the pools. The relaxation we sought has been achieved. But we are off, nonetheless, to gild the lily.
    The spa itself, charmingly decorated with Victorian antiques as accent pieces, is hopping with activity. A good-sized platoon of therapists ministers the many treatments offered. I've chosen the Paraffin Body Therapy and the Combination Massage. The paraffin treatment, ideal for aching muscles, arthritis and poor circulation, begins with dunking hands and feet (very quickly) into rather warm wax. While baggies encase one's feet and hands, sheets dipped in a lavender-scented paraffin are draped over the rest of the body. All wrapped up with no place to go, you can only lie there, for about twenty minutes, and let the effects take hold. After showering off the wax, you'll be impressed with the softening properties of the wax — especially on dried-by-the-desert heels and sun-damaged décolletage.
    The day finishes up with the Combination Massage — a sort of hedonist's sampler. A little Deep Tissue (depending on how much of a wimp you are), lots of Swedish, some Reflexology, and a touch (you should pardon the expression) of Shiatsu. It's all about ancient Chinese beliefs, meridians, pressure points and such. Pressing the thigh, apparently, has a positive effect on the spleen. But all you'll really care about is how limber, loose and light you'll feel.
    The top is up for the drive home. (We didn't want to float out somewhere near I-10.) Day Room, $45; Brunch, $10.95; Paraffin Body Therapy, $75; Combination Massage, $65. — Sarah Hagerty